Sebastian Steudtner: The Risk of Sitting Still

00:00:00: Who is crazy enough to surf down a ten story house?

00:00:34: So rather than reckless, it's more calculated.

00:00:36: If...

00:00:37: if its worth it everybody makes their own life.

00:00:42: so what is the risk?

00:00:45: Only a few people in the world can say that.

00:00:47: That for sure.

00:00:48: I remember the fights i had with my mom and dad even when some of our best friends

00:00:55: laughed at me.

00:00:57: You have to be prepared To die because thats the force Of nature

00:01:04: behind you.

00:01:18: Welcome to this episode of Going Mental and today we have a guest who goes mental, certainly in my definition of the word.

00:01:27: A little bit crazy...a little out-of-the comfort zone at least!

00:01:32: He is currently world record holder in big wave surfing an all round good dude.

00:01:38: I've had the pleasure meeting him few times And i'm really looking forward diving into the world of Sebastian Stoidner.

00:01:44: welcome to The Show.

00:01:46: how are you?

00:01:47: Thank you.

00:01:48: Yeah, I'm very well just finishing up the winter season.

00:01:53: Sebastian we start this show here traditionally by Figuring out your definition of going mental.

00:02:01: it's a word that obviously can mean all sorts Of things.

00:02:04: what is going mental mean to you?

00:02:05: when?

00:02:05: You hear it?

00:02:06: where does your mind go?

00:02:08: um It could mean a lot of different Things like Going Mental.

00:02:13: To Me Is.

00:02:17: It could be having a normal job that would drive me mental, or it could mean pursuing a dream.

00:02:26: Or doing something that takes literally going mental.

00:02:35: so I think there's lot of different going mentals.

00:02:40: It is funny we haven't had one yet and i can relate because people that as athletes what we do is crazy, right?

00:02:47: But a nine to five for me would drive you absolutely crazy.

00:02:52: Like it would be hard thing still and focus on doing the same metrics over and over.

00:02:58: Yeah It'd kill me.

00:03:01: I had this press recently.

00:03:06: one of most asked question why are you risking your life?

00:03:12: Why did you choose to take so many risks in life?

00:03:18: And I always look at it from the exact opposite view, which is The risk of sitting on a desk or doing something for somebody else consistently For twenty-thirty years Neglecting health not knowing your body.

00:03:41: Not knowing what are capable off and then Maybe ending up with a sickness or ending up without, you know unfulfilled life.

00:03:49: Or looking back and saying oh I could have should of That to me is much greater risk.

00:03:55: And You can still die in the car accident or something falls over construction site lands on you.

00:04:01: are you go parting?

00:04:03: somebody punches your face?

00:04:05: Your vegetable like that is not.

00:04:07: that's Not most people's brisk right.

00:04:10: so like To Me it I look at it differently.

00:04:16: Do you think in general that people don't take enough risk?

00:04:20: Is that something that you would advocate for?

00:04:25: yeah, I mean if I think for that to answer that first we have to define what is risk That one You know.

00:04:34: For me Risk is Something that is a real danger Or It's something that could affect me in my life like heavily in a negative way.

00:04:51: that's my definition of risk.

00:04:55: So rather than reckless you would say it's something perhaps more calculated?

00:05:01: Yeah, if its worth it.

00:05:03: so life is risky right or whatever.

00:05:08: what's the saying?

00:05:09: nobody makes it out alive.

00:05:10: we're all dying.

00:05:15: The staying alive forever will not happen for anyone.

00:05:19: So what is the risk?

00:05:21: To me, it's... ...not doing what I want to do and then looking at actual risks.

00:05:27: It is yeah..to calculate all of factors that i can calculate but also not caring about or being stopped by it to pursue what I wanted

00:05:44: Not die or whose life motto is not to die.

00:05:46: Brian Johnson, you know the guy who basically documenting the whole story and does all these health things as actually identified that fear.

00:05:56: And that kind of instinctive moment where your whole body is going through the motion a fear in real danger?

00:06:06: Is an essential health factor which so contrarian?

00:06:10: right because it could all go wrong but you actually need I guess from an evolutionary sense to be whole.

00:06:21: Yeah, yes?

00:06:24: If we look at it from a perspective of what's natural for us humans... We used to chase mammoths or whatever gigantic animals would stick and if you break your ankle is dead.

00:06:36: So now will come sitting like this And zero risks nothing If you want to, you think he can save yourself until whenever but that's a big risk.

00:06:54: To me

00:06:55: it is a bit grisks funny because I see your background.

00:06:58: uh i think behind your head It says one up right?

00:07:01: Which

00:07:02: which I believe if I'm remembering Remembering correctly Is from Mario brothers the The saying for getting an extra life.

00:07:12: So in video games, so that if you kind of... If the character dies.

00:07:16: You get one more life

00:07:18: which

00:07:19: I think is quite fascinating.

00:07:20: what's your take on OneUp?

00:07:22: Well i can't say who they are but They've been here and they put it there.

00:07:29: And so just friends Who were behind this?

00:07:36: It was like a motivational thing

00:07:43: One up the next guy or one-up yourself?

00:07:46: One, everything I love when When my closest people are with Excel.

00:07:57: I think more than then for myself.

00:08:00: Yeah That's it's interesting from a sport that seems so individualistic that you know really is You writing down the face.

00:08:09: much of what you speak about Is your team.

00:08:12: but Before we get into that, maybe let's just start at the very beginning.

00:08:16: for those people who are new to your journey.

00:08:19: I think it's important to set the context.

00:08:23: you grew up in Landlock.

00:08:24: Germany moved to Hawaii on an early stage.

00:08:27: Just yeah if you don't mind briefly share your journey Your early journey and how have actually got where you're right now?

00:08:38: To summarize real short is i grew up In Nuremberg.

00:08:44: water was always my element that I loved.

00:08:48: And adventure and action, it's what i'm looking for in life!

00:08:54: When I discovered surfing... ...I realized this is what I want to do.

00:09:02: Being in Nuremberg or Germany wasn't much surfing going on.

00:09:06: so.. ..I became a huge fan of a TV show called Gingen & Wind against the wind

00:09:14: Mm-hmm.

00:09:15: I don't know if you remember it.

00:09:17: Yeah, I grew up in South Africa So we got it every now and then because it was like satellite TV came in around about that time And I remember it was one of the early shows here.

00:09:27: yeah so these two dudes who were windsurfers?

00:09:30: Then they always ran into trouble and solve these cases and so i got really hooked on windsurfing Kind of surfing sport that I could pretend to do on the lakes around Nuremberg when there was a little bit of wind.

00:09:45: and When it was thirteen, I discovered Through a surfing magazine which I was studying Religiously.

00:09:53: I discovered There was this school in Hawaii.

00:09:56: you could go and windsurfing and be in.

00:09:58: so i decided To Go to Hawaii at sixteen actually went And then, yeah it took up from there.

00:10:08: I learned how to windsurf quite quickly... ...I stopped everything in Germany and moved there.. ..and saw the biggest wave back then was on Maui a wave called Piahi.

00:10:24: I fell in love with that!

00:10:26: I met my mentor Nelson Armitage who is head of big Hawaiian family.

00:10:32: The rest is what happened.

00:10:35: Fair enough before we get into the rest.

00:10:37: I mean moving at sixteen and from Germany.

00:10:43: Hawaii is exactly twelve hours of time difference, it's literally The other end of the world.

00:10:50: I Mean.

00:10:51: i look at my kids like if i think about my boy doing that six years.

00:10:54: for now It's a little bit freaky Like how did you come to be so sure?

00:11:01: How Did You just pack your bags And get yourself a ticket and move to Hawaii.

00:11:07: Actually, I don't know it...I have this in me.

00:11:14: um i do believe that every human has an element That comes natural and we're attached too And that's the only way I could explain is water?

00:11:29: definitely for me?

00:11:33: other than that I've never had to think about this.

00:11:38: It was just, I knew I wanted do it and did it.

00:11:41: Yeah, fair enough if you know that early on That is probably again for surfing.

00:11:48: For those of not familiar with surfing myself grew up surfing in Cape Town Never quite gift or any further gap of it, but its something that draws you in and is super addictive.

00:12:03: And Hawaii really is the mecca for sport right?

00:12:06: So to find your way there... It's not like I was handed over by you!

00:12:13: You came here, struggled through the motions.

00:12:19: What kind of effort did have go-through become a professional surfer in Hawaii, and that kind of culture?

00:12:32: Surfing is the sport of kings.

00:12:35: And it's heavily rooted in the native... The original culture of Hawaiians.

00:12:45: Then I was taken by Californians Australians and then Europeans.

00:12:53: this blonde white sport and but the origins of surfing are from Hawaii have a culture meaning um, lot to do with the community as well.

00:13:09: And so me being A White Blonde Guy From The Other Side Of The World Um Getting There Not Knowing Anything About That Just Wanting Waves And Wanting To Surf Of Course Was Uh was A Culture A Cultural Um clash let's call it that.

00:13:31: and um, It obviously wasn't easy to uh first integrate myself.

00:13:36: Um And there's a double conflict which is that you have the The industry so like the commercial surfing industry and then you have this actual Hawaiian surfing community?

00:13:47: Mm-hmm.

00:13:48: and I was lucky that i Was taken in by Nelson Amitage who?

00:13:53: um Rest in peace but he was the head of one of the biggest families in Hawaii.

00:14:03: And he was a foreign minister of the reinstated Hawaiian government, which means that he's very politically active and fighting for the rights of the Hawaiians.

00:14:15: Hawaii is under occupation since eighteen ninety-two so there are lots of social issues going on just to paint the picture of the environment that I was in.

00:14:29: On a flip side, it's fortunate for me and myself the, yeah.

00:14:59: The people in my sport that made this sport what it is today?

00:15:03: Um so I was good and bad.

00:15:07: Yeah i can somewhat relate because obviously both our sports mechers are in Hawaii right.

00:15:12: So Ironman triathlon.

00:15:15: for those who've never heard of It they may have heard Of the triathlon in Hawaii And you get That cultural difference a lot there, right?

00:15:22: Because it's the same thing.

00:15:23: It's rich white sport coming into the island but we come in once a year and kind of take over the Island In...in A culture that is very often mocked.

00:15:38: You know There's an underpants run which has now become fun thing.

00:15:42: But thats how locals used to mock The triathletes because they thought They're all running around with their spandex.

00:15:47: And you can feel that tension, right?

00:15:49: Because it is very much a localized tribe.

00:15:55: I think it's just important to highlight its no mean feat to be accepted by one of the local families because they... It takes time and must obviously speak your character to be welcomed there.

00:16:06: Fast forward little bit You make away as a pro surfer…it sounds like fairytale in terms.

00:16:15: how quickly progress.

00:16:17: You know, you obviously find your passion.

00:16:20: Um...you get to the very top of the sport and kind of celebrate Your first world title And have this elated feeling I guess Of arriving?

00:16:34: um..and then at The very awards You're mocked as a foreigner who can't paddle and greeted with A Nazi joke which i mean.

00:16:48: How does that feel?

00:16:51: I mean, there's a lot of backstory to it.

00:16:59: To the moment but i think It showed my position in this sport and for me at that time Call whatever you want to call it racism or fear of somebody arriving who did better quicker but wasn't part of that community.

00:17:30: But yeah, the aftermath I think is more important to highlight which... Which i didn't expect what happened and was basically my own industry even in Germany or Austria closed their doors To me instead of looking at What happened and condemning that.

00:18:01: so it was basically If you compare to a different sport in a different scenario, let's say.

00:18:08: You win it.

00:18:08: And because an Australian says ah, you know what yon he?

00:18:14: He won the Iron Man but uh-he doesn't squat squad enough weight, you Know.

00:18:22: and then because of that all the cycling brands and you know, to try them brand say oh we want nothing to do with him.

00:18:29: You know one has nothing to deal with the other.

00:18:31: I surfed.

00:18:32: The Biggest Wave category was The Biggest Wave.

00:18:35: Nobody else paddles into the biggest wave.

00:18:38: it's always assisted With a jet ski.

00:18:43: And because of that That Was Their Angle like.

00:18:47: okay what can We Take?

00:18:49: That He...That We Can Say Is Not One Of Us.

00:18:52: Yeah.

00:18:53: And then obviously the Nazi jokes, which should have been kind of an obvious one for everyone that yeah you shouldn't look at that.

00:19:04: You should look at this the positive and the sport not like.

00:19:08: take their word For it but I guess that's just Speaks for industry.

00:19:15: It's a very Very close industry very closed-minded industry.

00:19:24: Wetsuits are a good example.

00:19:25: All the wetsuits in surfing of black with like, tiny little logo on it and they've never changed.

00:19:32: And if you ask any surfer hey what would you like to wear?

00:19:35: They all say oh we'd like some color We'd like it to change but it never changes.

00:19:41: So for me It was really bad aftermath because I was world championed i was celebrated by media At the same time, I couldn't get any deals.

00:20:13: With the whole concept.

00:20:14: you know i'm localism and I know that's a whole debate in its own but it basically speaking to the point if your not born there.

00:20:22: You don't have the same rights as the person who does which is very strange kind of concept, what?

00:20:31: The really interesting thing is then come out when u have one more world titles you've smashed world records you're going on built something in a different spot altogether.

00:20:45: And it makes me wonder what you do with that kind of hostility towards, is there fuel?

00:20:51: Is this really something that motivates and if so how can we deal with it?

00:21:01: So I think localism in many ways.

00:21:10: It's actually a positive thing for surfing, but there is different types of localism.

00:21:17: so it is like the you have surfing has or the Hawaiian way Of looking at the ocean and that the Hawaiian values have a lot to do with respect.

00:21:32: And So respect For the community respect for each other respect for the land for the sea And because surfing has become very popular, and when you surf a big wave especially.

00:21:48: You get a lot of attention.

00:21:49: it attracts people that don't do it Because they love it.

00:21:54: They have a lot respect and connection to the picture.

00:22:04: So there is no race track.

00:22:08: There are rules There's nothing to regulate it.

00:22:13: So in some way, the local community has to take care of their own spot.

00:22:20: now how It developed and how people use it To say hey I'm from here so you can't surf here.

00:22:28: That's completely wrong.

00:22:29: And that's uh That's disrespectful People using a good value or something Culturally important in surfing for the benefit, but doing exactly that.

00:22:45: The opposite of what it actually should be.

00:22:49: Yeah four But do you question how to deal with the hostility or like if somebody doesn't?

00:22:59: If I'm disrespected or are we're like all whatever have encountered.

00:23:04: It's i think it is.

00:23:08: don't really care about people.

00:23:10: I don't really care about the like, I'm not all.

00:23:12: he said this to me and now oh my god.

00:23:15: And what are they thinking?

00:23:16: About Me.

00:23:17: Um i have My own logic in my Own way of Judging Like What's who is important and what Who should listen To him.

00:23:26: what Is that?

00:23:28: what's a valuable information and what it just Bullshit.

00:23:31: what I hate is being Treated Not Fairly.

00:23:34: That Really Gets me.

00:23:35: It gets me Going and Actually I Perform The Best if if I'm angry or one-up.

00:23:47: If i have to have a one up on you, then... ...I will win!

00:23:52: Like..if you piss me off before big day.... ..I am winning.

00:23:57: I had the saying that's always guided for me which was ninety eight percent of right reasons and two percent is left for the assholes out there.

00:24:08: And that ratio isn't always accurate.

00:24:11: It can shift, I know exactly what you mean But were you like this as a twenty-two year old when you won your first award?

00:24:17: and When This Came?

00:24:18: or is That Something That You Developed Over Time?

00:24:21: Is That Really Something... speaking from personal experience i used to very much get blocked.

00:24:27: i would just Get Angry Just Have This Ball Of Energy but it took me ages To Learn To Channel This Energy.

00:24:36: How Was That For You?

00:24:38: So I Was very lucky.

00:24:42: I didn't hear what they said on stage because back then, I was very.

00:24:48: I'd say it's a bit out of control A lot of times and like I would take anger into fights as a physical as expressing Yeah, that was probably the opposite you're gonna go wasn't blocked.

00:25:08: I'd go out with my anger.

00:25:11: And you know, growing up in this Hawaiian environment your respect is on the top.

00:25:21: so being disrespected if i had heard it and i'm lucky i didn't hear because when they were speaking everyone else around me was hugging me So...I went up like hey oh good smiling shaking their hands.

00:25:39: I just heard that they hit their thing a little and couldn't make sense of it.

00:25:44: But, It didn't have enough time to process the last part before we went on to the mics And i was so happy!

00:25:54: Had I heard it probably would've been really bad for me.

00:26:01: Actually Nelson took us aside because i was there with Nelson with Bobo who's in the movie as well And they, yeah.

00:26:13: They I don't know how much can say here publicly but the guys on stage had a lot of risk and not just for that night But in For long time and Nelson was one who pulled us aside and said hey We're not giving into this year to champion we just you know you accomplish what he wanted to accomplish.

00:26:41: We're going to have dinner and hang a party.

00:26:43: And it's we celebrate.

00:26:45: you were not letting this influence us Which was the opposite of how I know him like he made her first one to lead the charge in And confront them.

00:26:56: but In this case, yeah He he and this sticks or stuck with me as a lesson To Really in any kind of situation, pay attention to what's really important and not let outside dictate.

00:27:17: What we have here?

00:27:18: To have enough time for the right reaction because you've heard about it but history shows Fletcher... It is Nathan!

00:27:34: And his brother's name?

00:27:37: Christian.

00:27:38: Christian as Yeah, it's definitely being on the wrong side.

00:27:44: But yeah do you sometimes think?

00:27:50: Back to that moment and back to what happened.

00:27:52: And realize that You are now living your dream in Portugal not in Hawaii.

00:28:00: you've basically made Nazarene famous has a place and formed a team around you, you're redefining the sport.

00:28:10: You sending new boundaries all also because of that moment?

00:28:15: No I don't think so.

00:28:18: it...I do what i do for love mm-hmm!

00:28:23: I really love what I do.

00:28:25: It's..I really enjoy experiencing those size waves and thinking about ideas how to go faster, how to make it safer.

00:28:42: How to get my big wave team around me motivated you know... To develop that kind of partnership that my jet ski driver Eric and I see the same.

00:28:56: so we have these moments.

00:28:58: It could be chaos rain and wind storm and barely can see but We both see if its a good wave And we both have this reaction.

00:29:08: We look at each other and get excited, he starts racing with the jet ski in those moments to me... ...and that experience is why I do it!

00:29:22: I generally don't want anything to prove any human.

00:29:30: Where am i?

00:29:31: I've done everything you can on a sport.

00:29:37: I'm well off, like there's nothing in me that needs to prove... ...to somebody else.

00:29:47: This would be the worst thing.

00:29:48: through risking my life and going crazy!

00:29:51: I generally love

00:30:02: it.".

00:30:07: always have this thing that people like you, have a drive.

00:30:13: That comes from somewhere and I'm not even saying it's something toxic but definitely change your trajectory right?

00:30:21: It obviously wasn't pleasant experience But forced to come up with new places You went back home after the experience Went to Ireland of all places To go surfing You know, after growing up in board shorts on the beaches of Hawaii.

00:30:42: it certainly had a key impact wouldn't you say?

00:30:44: Yeah.

00:30:44: One hundred percent but... In the movie that is like as the pinnacle moment shown as a pinnical moment.

00:30:52: But to me personally That's not this one moment that defined so much.

00:31:00: When I was thirteen and decided i'm going to Hawaii my dad He said, can you give us a great idea?

00:31:10: And then like check how much ticket is and check where it is.

00:31:16: Come back show me how are going to do

00:31:18: this.".

00:31:21: I remember the fights that had with my mom or dad even when some of our best friends laughed at me.

00:31:28: they were like yeah he's gonna go to Hawaii sure glued surfing magazines in it.

00:31:37: You know, just had the cover of this schoolbook so that teacher would think I'm reading and then sitting on a last row and was like studying every... Like iI was looking at picture for one hour Just um..like studying every single detail because I love there so much And ..i think That was ...that was time when understood nobody.

00:32:01: Nobody believes In what im doing or and what I want to do.

00:32:06: And i have to be the one, you know leading this after being a one taking responsibility for it.

00:32:13: then yeah started working in an only surf shop windsurf shop in the region.

00:32:18: i started having side jobs after school and was very dedicated since i was yeah thirteen fourteen years old um...and idk why but uh..to me that's I guess it's a blessing because It means that i can do A lot of things.

00:32:39: where other people stop Because they have an expectation or They think That there needs to be...I Can keep going without On my own energy And i can go long enough To Where then the energy grabs Other People, to Understand Believe and walk with me.

00:33:01: The sign of of a leader, I think is exactly that.

00:33:06: and you have this vision.

00:33:08: That's kind of a little bit outside the grasp yourself but it's a long way out of the grasp.

00:33:14: those people around you.

00:33:15: then bit by bit through your actions ,through your dedications .

00:33:20: Through the path that you walk People realize they're serious about this And i find really interesting.

00:33:29: You were instinctively visualizing At the age of thirteen.

00:33:35: I mean, yeah that's kind of it must be what one other keys to success.

00:33:41: and if you look at the science in your look at evidence behind every time i get i got injured.

00:33:47: i would use visualization too.

00:33:49: see myself running more efficiently or swimming and drilling techniques.

00:33:54: is visualizations still a key part of your routine?

00:33:58: Yeah me wish i could go back two those times just because I didn't have much else to think about.

00:34:06: It was quite easy, but yeah it is.

00:34:10: i actually visualize um...I do a biking for example uh..i get into my own zone or running ...um....or ..uhm...I'm really hyper so hard time and sitting still like okay meditate and think about this now.

00:34:36: So I have to do it in movement or free diving.

00:34:40: so if i prepare for freediving, the breathe ups then those are moments that I visualize.

00:34:48: but I visualized... I used to visualize by looking at something And my mind would start processing.

00:35:02: It would become a movie basically.

00:35:07: And now it's, I'm visualizing feelings or trying to get the feeling and then the image

00:35:15: okay?

00:35:16: Mm-hmm!

00:35:17: That is...I think i am doing less than when was like thirteen to sixteen whatever but.. ..I can tap into the source of that quicker in short time.

00:35:32: Do you ever visualize the feeling of having accomplished it before actually accomplishing it?

00:35:37: Yeah.

00:35:38: Oh yeah, that's I start with that.

00:35:42: That is a very common thing to find out about athletes but its kind.

00:35:48: if your start at end in mind and then build away there It would be a mess of me not to go into some of the extreme situations.

00:35:58: You talked about free diving, I did deep dive obviously in last week or so and found some articles where you teach yourself how to pass out underwater.

00:36:16: Take us into that relationship looking for the extreme

00:36:26: Actually learned at a big island On a free diving course and I would say is the least extreme thing.

00:36:34: that And something at everyone.

00:36:39: Actually, every one probably can't quite quickly learn.

00:36:45: Um, I think The meaning behind it as Is uh more extreme or to purpose binded?

00:36:51: It's a more extreme Extreme thing.

00:36:57: So the biggest risk in Or the biggest fear is to be under a big wave, not coming up and being powerless because it was always stronger than we are.

00:37:14: And so I think that's probably the most common fear of surfers in especially with bigger surfers as they're held on there and being tumbled by those waves.

00:37:24: So my logic was okay if i can just hold my breath until I don't have to worry about that because then when i'm being tumbled, and just pulling my breath.

00:37:34: And if a come up?

00:37:36: I'm coming out from passing all of them passing on like rationing it's It knows you can do.

00:37:45: she has

00:37:45: not extreme at all.

00:37:46: yeah mean You're talking but the fear of drowning which is probably on many people's radar The most extreme thing.

00:37:52: But keep going.

00:37:53: hey

00:37:53: exactly because of that.

00:37:54: so So my logic was if I can learn how to control my mind and I can physically experience how it is to hold your breath until you pass out.

00:38:08: And then learn exactly what happens with the diaphragm, along in contractions all those things that give you fear or panic at this moment.

00:38:18: if i could go through them when they happen first im not surprised.

00:38:25: second And I can tick a box, which is okay.

00:38:31: I know how to drown so if i am drowning It's not traumatizing.

00:38:37: Yeah again the fact that you don't describe it as extreme like II get in a sense right?

00:38:42: That people always You start off small and then you work your way up too To be you know bigger and bigger and I guess that's exactly The same journey for you where he started of on a lake with barely any wind And now you're kind of facing these giants.

00:38:58: But again, logically it sounds wonderful.

00:39:04: It's just how do you actually manage your instinct and fear?

00:39:11: In sports in general we're always taught to never have fear – respect of everything but don't have fear whereas if I look at some things that you've said before….

00:39:22: You are more a boxer like you have to be prepared for death.

00:39:28: Because yeah, that is the force of the nature behind you.

00:39:31: Yeah and I actually don't look at fear as something bad.

00:39:36: i really um think that fears Is We're back to it's pot.

00:39:44: why do we have fear?

00:39:45: It's natural for us to have fear.

00:39:47: And Back in a day If we were running if we wouldn't be scared off the whatever the mammoth or Falling rocks or whatever the whatever.

00:39:58: The danger was then we probably just die because would stand there.

00:40:03: Oh, yeah It's just running past me and boom you're you know it kill you.

00:40:06: so fear is enhancing your senses its helping you to pay attention to be sharped to be focused and Fear for me in a especially not enough season I think have a lot more fear than during this season.

00:40:26: Why?

00:40:26: Because I can think about everything that could go wrong, everything we're not prepared for.

00:40:31: Everything...I have a lot of time to analyze and look at what happened by trying improve things seeing what were actually not prepared For.

00:40:43: When it comes into motion when the waves are happening then i know exactly every single way I know exactly every single thing that is prepared for me not to die.

00:41:02: And from my team, you know... From everything that i go through and a lot of things To prevent any kind of risk.

00:41:13: But then That doesn't mean that im going into the big wave day and Im fearful all these things.

00:41:21: It's more like taking care them And I don't need to think about them anymore.

00:41:25: so i actually take more risk because of that.

00:41:29: That makes sense?

00:41:31: yeah, yes it does.

00:41:32: i mean in in cycling terms i guess people can relate.

00:41:36: a lot easier is when people started wearing helmets.

00:41:39: but its just thinking about having a mobile ambulance travel with me all the time which would be ideal preparation.

00:41:47: every time.

00:41:48: go down some pyrrhenian mountain climb at eighty k's an hour and what make sense?

00:41:54: Nobody does it and I guess nobody else doesn't in your sport either.

00:41:59: No,

00:42:00: and is that a control thing for you?

00:42:02: Is that something That allows you to maintain more control?

00:42:07: or was it really an analytical thing to be like?

00:42:09: okay.

00:42:10: I've done this.

00:42:11: This isn't check And then like you say i can go full send i can risk It all the more.

00:42:19: i mean its started with With the necessity of having Something because In Nazaré, when I first came here there was literally one lifeguard by foot with one of those lifeguard buoys.

00:42:38: Good luck!

00:42:38: And you have a beach that's few kilometers long.

00:42:42: the next hospital which isn't great is like half an hour away and You have empty ambulance The, the German kind of ambulance that comes fully equipped with a EMT.

00:42:57: It's just a dude in a like and a stretcher And he'll put you on there and then slowly start going.

00:43:03: so You will die if you need any kind of urgent medical care.

00:43:08: not even Like your Not even like the five minutes or what three minutes?

00:43:14: type Of situation.

00:43:15: but I can You know you have a punctured lung Or something that you need help within thirty minutes or forty minutes Knows what they're doing and no way of getting off that beach.

00:43:27: You know bleeding there.

00:43:28: He could just stop or you know, like something That would be a fairly simple medical situation.

00:43:33: We didn't have a solution for it.

00:43:34: So that's why I started looking at it.

00:43:36: But then i think And this is my way Of controlling Or dealing with My fear?

00:43:42: I Think of dealing With With all the factors That I think are related to Me being free To do What I want to Do and call it control or preparation, but I love to improve.

00:44:04: We're probably the fastest shoreline medical rescue system with this type of medical technology and abilities in the world.

00:44:19: There's nothing like that on any other beach.

00:44:24: I love the process of developing those things.

00:44:30: You're ruining my childhood memories here, it has to be Baywatch!

00:44:37: Well dangerous speech.

00:44:39: Yeah, it is really funny because I grew up as a lifeguard and that's how I made my first cash right back in Cape Town And literally that dude with that plastic buoy That was me Walking around the beach.

00:44:50: like you know the riptides going off Cape town The closest thing we have to Nazare or Jaws are any of these?

00:44:58: is this spot called dungeons?

00:45:00: yeah Which is...I'm sure It's nothing special to you but really, really impressive to see that kind of power that the ocean can produce.

00:45:11: And you essentially being one person as a decent swimmer but exposed to the strength and the power of the ocean and seeing how necessary that actually is brings me trying to describe the feeling You have a relationship to skiing or the ski preparation.

00:45:38: I've recently started skiing and The best thing i could come up with is skiing icy moguls With an avalanche chasing me And literally you wait at the top of the mountain until you see the avalanches go, then send off.

00:45:56: Is that roughly the rush?

00:46:01: Plus the mountain... ...is not static but it's You see it growing before you start descending.

00:46:13: Yeah, if... It's a really hard feeling to describe actually but just to give it a perspective sometimes the storms that bring us the biggest waves in Portugal.

00:46:28: there about a third half of the Atlantic becomes the eye of a storm and that storm starts pushing an energy towards the coast of Portugal.

00:46:45: And then when that energy unloads, becomes a wave in it crashes... That's what I'm part of!

00:46:54: So the whole magnitude of physical energy is moving.

00:47:03: It makes me feel really small meaningless like nothing And it's a very humbling experience.

00:47:13: But then at the same time, I'm an athlete and performing... ...I'm hunting the wave, I am chasing the waves you know?

00:47:21: I have surfboard that is called Casador RS.

00:47:25: Casador is hunter in Portuguese RS for racing sports edition which are made to be quick enough to catch those waves.

00:47:35: So on other hand It's a very yeah, very powerful feeling and it's like if its surreal because Its meaningless.

00:47:45: this is crazy.

00:47:45: This is the whole ocean isn't movement.

00:47:48: on the other side I'm performing you know i'm setting my lines them Doing stuff

00:47:55: And You prepare all of that?

00:47:56: I mean your second to none in terms of the preparation not only the medical side and you've got jet skis That have somewhere around four hundred horsepower setting new speeds.

00:48:08: your current world record is twenty six and a half, twenty-six point two or something like that meters.

00:48:16: You surfed the bigger wave over two years ago?

00:48:18: Can I just randomly ask why on earth does it take two years to ratify a World Record?

00:48:26: Well goes back too...I guess my position in this sport which i think its still the same as has been back then for who is in control of, you know... Of measuring or giving those titles.

00:48:47: And obviously the success I've been having not something that made them like me.

00:48:52: more so when they need to decide To give a world record it takes time than if somebody from Brazil or California Interesting what happened on The Last world record.

00:49:11: So the general topic is how do you measure a wave?

00:49:15: You know, it's like How do you...how to measure that size of a wave?

00:49:19: and The way It has been done is basically like imagine this as the wave.

00:49:24: let's say This Is me Mm-hmm.

00:49:28: And then they say okay the wave is its finishes here and Then his shin bone is like forty centimeters Fifty centimeters, whatever.

00:49:38: So how many times does this shin bone fit in here?

00:49:42: And then the real question though is where does the wave stop Where does it end?

00:49:47: and because there's no way of looking at a picture and Saying oh yeah It's right here like to the centimeter its here.

00:49:57: That's where the margin off.

00:49:59: you know I'll give it him or give it to him.

00:50:02: Is that number one?

00:50:03: number two was the how do you select The images that are being measured.

00:50:10: Um, and then number three is how do you give a number which is like twenty six point eight whatever?

00:50:20: You know to the centimeter I can't.

00:50:23: so That's kind of where we come from.

00:50:27: And so i was thinking all right So there has be way.

00:50:31: uh There's ocean signs as wave science.

00:50:35: waves must have been measured Before.

00:50:37: so let me see if there's a solution.

00:50:42: So I did you know, big Reach out to universities and institutes.

00:50:47: And I discovered that there has never been any ocean day any wave data of coastal waves breaking Being measured as they're breaking.

00:50:59: it was not static on like an oil platform or like a wind farm work from a Big vessel, you know how to see.

00:51:09: and Then I decided okay.

00:51:11: I'm gonna build my own measuring technology And Because the technologies there.

00:51:18: so I started with this kind of homemade huge drone with big radar block under it and Spend like half my season budget on a nose.

00:51:29: So convinced that this would work in its like just breakthrough thing it ended up crashing and sinking on the first actual wave day.

00:51:46: And then, yeah some things happened.

00:51:47: like in two thousand eighteen I rode a wave that until now is like the most seen wave ever has billions of views.

00:52:01: Um, taking an account.

00:52:02: It was mistaken for a world record that was given uh For somebody else or somebody else was being celebrated with that wave.

00:52:12: um your wife?

00:52:13: With my wave yeah and um Yeah it's quite...it is if you go like stevo reposted it And then realized he tagged the wrong person.

00:52:26: He really cool about it and reached out to me.

00:52:28: Um, I said dude.

00:52:29: I'm so sorry like how can I?

00:52:31: Like what kind of do?

00:52:32: and then the other guy when he corrected it then texted him saying hey why did you change in this

00:52:40: whole thing?

00:52:43: but i picked that up again in twenty twenty two When we started a science project where I was trying to understand We're starting to get data from just from everything, my body.

00:52:59: From the surfboard and waves to understand where we are.

00:53:05: how can make it better?

00:53:07: How do I train myself faster in a more scientific way specifically for my needs.

00:53:14: And also what are you writing about those waves?

00:53:18: not only the size but speed volume energy that is given out.

00:53:26: We did it again.

00:53:28: And this time, with more budget and a professional approach so that the last world record from twenty-twenty four was then measured by scientific wave measuring drone with a lighter system not just for surfing or big wave surfing but in wave science.

00:53:53: The biggest wave or a big wave was measured as it was breaking and I was twenty eight point five centimeters.

00:54:00: It's obviously weird coming from such a Binary sport.

00:54:05: is triathlon, you know we have times We have set distances.

00:54:08: We have these kind of records And You know if there its black-and-white?

00:54:15: Then to think that somebody has to decide and has to have a jury on something really objectively measurable.

00:54:24: Um, is that something that crosses in your mind?

00:54:28: Does that enter the two percent?

00:54:29: uh Is that Something that gets you up at four o'clock in the morning?

00:54:33: Yeah and not just I mean for myself definitely but what happened In the past?

00:54:39: like how many?

00:54:40: um You know It's Not fair.

00:54:44: it's not fair to To have a sport which produces So much views so much value And then athletes are risking everything and they're doing everything.

00:54:57: We're not in a rich sport, like our sport is not an organized sport.

00:55:02: everyone has their own team but it needs big infrastructure.

00:55:06: so Big Whip surfers very dedicated to me that disrespect saying hey you went there where three four five people Went and you made it there, and then now we're just gonna judge.

00:55:24: You We're not going to tell you how I'm not gonna Tell you who but were just gonna.

00:55:30: and hey please fly through California on your own And maybe he'll get something like that to me.

00:55:36: definitely got me up in the morning um?

00:55:40: And On the other hand also did they Just The fact how little we know about waves and now a little.

00:55:47: We know what actually, What were doing or dealing with?

00:55:51: And then the vision in idea of How can we differently look at these ways if we would understand it better.

00:56:03: That really got me hooked on science part.

00:56:08: It's

00:56:10: amazing that you managed to always go on.

00:56:12: Yeah

00:56:13: just wrap this up.

00:56:14: So what happened?

00:56:15: The first world record took two years to measure on the second interracial, like that most advanced traditional way of measuring photos because it came from literally judging.

00:56:33: They would have a judging panel and then they would judge the size of the wave you know, how many times it fits in there and then they had an institute validating it approximately.

00:56:52: And what happened?

00:56:53: since I proved that we can do this scientifically?

00:56:57: And the Guinness World Records and their measuring entity which is the world surf league or was a world surf leak... They should have the most advanced measuring technology so approved as possible.

00:57:14: And actually for like a little bit I thought, okay how are they going to get on it?

00:57:18: They'll do it.

00:57:20: But what happened was another two years back and forth where there were trying everything that could find reasons why not accept it.

00:57:30: What happens is when you step back... ...they said we're not measuring waves anymore.

00:57:36: It went back into the dude who invented the first system, the judging system.

00:57:46: So now it actually went backwards.

00:57:50: Yeah because locking yourself in a room with a bunch of mates and having five beers saying oh no that's at least twenty shins is so much more fun.

00:57:59: Man I'm sorry to hear that again.

00:58:03: coming from world where everything was binary and timed and easy It makes me think you remember Asterix and Obelix?

00:58:12: It's.

00:58:13: it is one of my all-time favorite comics.

00:58:15: for those of you that don't know what its the agaulian village that resists the romans.

00:58:20: And all have, um... You know them?

00:58:23: The world has taken over by the Romans except for their little village and it sounds a little bit like your creating your own village or team of people who are just there to do cool shit really like you're.

00:58:37: you're creating a word inside surfing that Can't be denied and that is you know objectively breaking every sorts of boundary.

00:58:48: And You seem to almost thrive on that.

00:58:53: Yeah, I mean i started this because?

00:58:55: I thought it was the coolest thing ever and Because I loved Every experience I had in it.

00:59:01: and I think surfing is such a great.

00:59:05: It Is Such A Great Experience for humans especially For young people.

00:59:11: We learn so much about ourselves, we have a connection to the environment.

00:59:19: One of the most important elements on this planet and sport is such physical activities with others.

00:59:29: it's such great mentor.

00:59:30: I don't think that would be where i'm at.

00:59:33: without sports like my life wouldn't not been as good.

00:59:41: And all these options or opportunities that we have and things to explore, of course... To me it's a no-brainer.

00:59:50: That cool shit has to be done with it!

00:59:54: It has been used in the coolest way not limited ways but controlled ways for people like

01:00:07: us.

01:00:07: As we wrap this up I would love to know when you Have one of these titles when you get one of those records You're living your dream in some sense.

01:00:22: And yet, you've announced.

01:00:24: Do want to surf a wave almost twice the size?

01:00:26: Fifty meters.

01:00:28: That's kind of this North Star.

01:00:31: If anything do feel like...you feel like you have arrived or are you content with where you were?

01:00:39: You mean content.

01:00:40: if I had quit tomorrow would be all good?

01:00:45: Yes.

01:00:46: No, definitely not.

01:00:48: You know the thing.

01:00:50: I really don't care about a world record.

01:00:52: It has never been my ambition and it will never be my ambition.

01:00:55: And you know its right here.

01:00:58: The plaque.

01:00:59: things is right there.

01:01:01: Yeah Basically as piece of paper.

01:01:04: That's where he is.

01:01:05: Yeah i've got two of them but idk what they are.

01:01:08: yeah so uh...and actually have to put down because My friends who made this said no, you can't put that on the one.

01:01:17: You got to show it all piece.

01:01:18: if he showed so in the world record doesn't mean I have arrived anywhere.

01:01:26: To me The experience of surfing the wave and having my closest friends In that environment with me And coming out years later talking about Hey remember that moment?

01:01:41: That is what.

01:01:44: What really?

01:01:46: what makes me content with where I am at as far is like the biggest wave.

01:01:51: and you know saying now, okay there's so because in two thousand eighteen we saw waves probably fifty meters In size Here Nazarene.

01:02:02: We've only seen that once in fifteen years So I don't know.

01:02:06: You know might be fifty-five.

01:02:08: when that happens again Will i want to serve that way?

01:02:12: then will it be ready for that wave?

01:02:14: cuz It takes a lot of physical readiness and mental readiness.

01:02:21: And, you know it's big operation to be ready for that.

01:02:24: so I don't know if i will get to serve away twice the size but... ...I want to be in the time when I have!

01:02:31: If happens then it happens also.. ..I do not think Nazaré is at the end the biggest waves.

01:02:39: I think there's so many big waves out there that we haven't seen yet, haven't heard about it and attacking that frontier going beyond Nazarene is also something has to be done.

01:02:54: It's been working on for quite a while already.

01:02:57: Yeah of course spending eight hours per day in the water waiting for one wave searching all around the world A fifty meter wave isn't enough Sebastian, that's why you're an inspiration.

01:03:12: I would love to know before you go when was the last time you went mental?

01:03:16: We had a giant storm here like a hurricane strength Storm and

01:03:25: You always knows bad when they give it a name.

01:03:28: Yes It was the highest winds ever recorded in Portugal more than two hundred kilometers an hour.

01:03:37: I really got attached to my trees and the plants that I've planted a few years ago.

01:03:45: And, uh...I was in-in my house here and the wind was shaking.

01:03:49: everything you know?

01:03:50: The glass of the balcony was ripped off like things were flying around.

01:03:55: it's proper man!

01:03:58: And only thing i could think about is my TREES!

01:04:02: Then next day when we went out every single tree taken down, gone broken.

01:04:13: I think it went like mental and I spent straight three days just taking care of the trees.

01:04:24: I didn't care about the house but nothing

01:04:27: did they make?

01:04:28: Some made some were still looking if there reattaching or not.

01:04:35: Finger crossed Sebastian.

01:04:37: Thanks so much for your time.

01:04:38: I really, really appreciate it.

01:04:39: i know the surface cranking and What?

01:04:41: It means for a surfer to actually show up.

01:04:43: when though When the waves are happening?

01:04:45: So I don't want to torture any longer Appreciate it And see you next time buddy.

01:04:51: thanks for having me on.

01:05:05: This podcast will be produced from pod stars by omr.